The biggest attraction at Tsukiji Fish Market is probably the tuna auction. However, be prepared: A visit takes dedication! The tuna auction starts in the wee hours at 5am, meaning you must drag yourself up at 3 in the morning, line up outside in the freezing cold for an hour, transfer to a small room with over a hundred other people and wait there for another half an hour.

You then stand in a smelly warehouse for 15 minutes to see dead, frozen fish being sold. As unappealing as the procedures sound, the truth is, for a tourist who is keen to witness Japanese culture in action, that long-awaited 15 minutes at the end is definitely an eye-opening experience!

Admission into the auction is limited to 120 visitors per day on a first-come first serve basis. 30 minutes before the auction starts, visitors are led inside a small room where they are handed bright neon vests and a pamphlet with guidelines on attending the auction. Visitors are split into two groups of 60 to enter at different time slots. My friend and I were in the first group. We were led by a guide to the off-limits inner market where the auction is held.

At first glance, the auction area looks a bit disorganised. Among the rows and rows of tuna there are people everywhere. Some are walking around shining flashlights on the fish and poking at them with odd-looking metal sticks. There are photographers standing around in the corners doing nothing in particular, and random workers walking around looking equally as bewildered as the tourists.

Nothing happens for the first few minutes then, all of a sudden, a man walks close to one of the tuna and rings a cow bell. People gather around him, and the next thing you know, he’s chanting at the speed of light! Even though I had no idea what he was rapidly chanting, we felt stressed out as we witnessed buyers bidding. He talked so fast! Each auction ended before we even realized what was happening. We managed to watch about 3 auctions during our time in the auction area.

When our visit time was up, the guide led us out to a different gate. It was this 2-minute walk that made me realize the market truly is an acutal market, and not just some show put on for tourists. Workers on tiny delivery carts zoomed through the area way too fast, weaving between the traffic of much larger vehicles regardless of whether they were stalled or not.

People crossed in front of moving vehicles everywhere, avoiding being hit by mere inches, yet nobody seemed scared – except the tourists. Wide-eyed, amazed, but utterly terrified, we hurried along behind our guide back to the gate, trying our best to stay alive during our walk through the busy inner market. It really is off-limits to visitors for a good reason!

If unfortunately, you cannot make it up in time for the tuna auction, a visit to the outer market – opened to the public at all times – is a must! Hidden behind the blocks of retail stores selling anything from fish knives to freshly cut fish, are some of the best sushi restaurants in Japan. Most of them serve fresh fish that has just been brought in that morning, so compared to the average sushi restuarant, the restuarants at Tsukiji are already loads better! However, since we had gotten up so early, we wanted to justify our efforts by trying only the best of the best: Sushi Dai.

Although there are many restuarants lining along the alleways of the outer market, it is not difficult to find Sushi Dai – just look for the only restaurant with a line-up at 6 in the morning. Since coming to Japan, I have tried eating sushi at many different restaurants, but the sushi at Sushi Dai was so much better!

You can choose between ordering one of two set menus. I opted for the more expensive one (around 4,000円) while my friend chose the other (around 3,000円). I definitely recommend the more expensive option!

While waiting in the line-up, the waitress will come around to ask you to choose between one of the two sets offered. The only difference she will describe between is that the more expensive one comes with 2 extra pieces of fish. This is quite misleading. In fact, while both options serve the same line-up of fish, the more expensive option offers the better, more delicious part of the fish.

While all the sushi was absolutely delicious, my favourite was definitely the toro (fatty tuna belly). I’ve never really liked tuna that much, preferring salmon instead. But toro is just so good!

Sadly, because we had to return to our hotel to check out in time, we could not explore the outer market after our indulgement. If you have time, and are only planning on staying in Tokyo for the day, I recommend checking out the many seafood stores lining up along the streets to bring a freshly cut piece of fish back home!

Find out more about the market and how to get there on the Tsukiji website. 

Bubble wrap your windows

Bubble wrapping your windows will give you instant double glazing. Bubble-up to keep the cold out and your precious warmth in. Wrap with smaller bubbles will be more effective as the bubbles are packed together more tightly than those on a larger grade wrap. Fitting it is simple; clean your windows, cut your wrap to size, and use masking tape to attach it to the frame. Some websites recommend just spraying water onto the bubble wrap and sticking it directly on to the glass. Here’s a step-by-step for the DIY-phobic.

You can pick up sheets of bubble wrap at the 100円 store. For larger lengths visit Cainz Homes. Try and resist the urge to pop all those lovely bubbles before Spring!

Banish drafts

Don’t let a draft blow that warm fuzzy feeling out of your kotatsu. Wobbly doors and flimsy windows seem to be the norm in Japanese apartments. A sukima teepu (すきまテープ) is a quick fix to keep the cold winds out. These tapes have a peel-off sticky back and are available in foam and brush varieties. Cut lengths to size and stick them around the edges of your doors and windows. These are also great for keeping out noise, dust and summer insects. Pick some up at a hardware store or online.

Curtains for the cold

Tackle the shivers by investing in some drapery. Flimsy curtains will let the heat escape and the cold penetrate. I did away with my apartment’s flimsy, too short, lurid green curtains and replaced them with some heavy heat keepers – the improvement was instant. Heavy curtains will serve you well throughout the year by keeping the sunlight out and you cool during the summer. A makeover at your mado won’t cost the earth either… I picked up my miracle ‘heat-in, sun-out’ curtains at Sanki for a bargain 1,000円. I did a smaller window for 500円. Hang some new threads at your genkan for an extra defence against the winter.

Fit a stop panel

Another solution for window warmth warfare is a ストップパネル (stop panel). These plastic or foam sheets have a reflective silver side and can be cut to size. Fit them to windows and glass doors to tackle heat loss and drafts. These panels are only high enough to cover the bottom section of your windows and doors, so are maybe worth considering if bubble wrap alone isn’t keeping you toasty. You can find stop panels on Rakuten.

Apply some heat

It seems there isn’t anything that can’t be heated by a kairo. The word kairo comes from the kanji 懐 (futokoro) meaning pocket, which can also be read as kai, and 炉 (ro) which is translated as oven. Eco-kairo are environmentally friendly microwavable gel pockets offered in an endless array of designs. Pick up your ‘pocket oven’ at a hundred yen store or go high-tech with a USB version.

When your futon feels like a block of ice, slip in a kairo bed pad and pillow for a cosy night’s rest. Try a kairo band-aid which can be strapped to your favourite cold spot for a guaranteed 40 degree glow on the skin.

But the heat doesn’t stop there… A set of USB kairo glove warmers could come in handy when you’re bashing out February lesson plans on the keyboard. And for ladies who are very brave, and presumably very cold, there are even kairo panty liners. Good luck girls!

Stay warm Gunma.

Thank you to everyone who entered and all the voters. There were some really nice photos this month. Stay tuned for the next GAJET photo contest — coming soon!

1st Place

2nd Place

Zauo is a Tokyo izakaya with a difference. This ‘restaurant’ is the shape of a large wooden boat, with diners placed on chunky benches all along the port and starboard sides. A sea pool surrounds the boat, and it’s from there that you can catch your dinner.

A couple of floors up in the same building that houses Shinjuku’s Washington Hotel, it seems an unlikely location for a spot of fishing. But what is about to be the freshest sashimi in Tokyo is waiting to be hooked.

I took my friends who were visiting in December for some authentic Japanese cuisine served with a touch of the bizarre. Our set menu for four people came in at 12,500円 and provided a seemingly endless offering of dishes; tempura, tsukemono, sushi, karaage, tiger prawns, omelette, salad, rice…

Along with our dinner we received two fishing tickets each, as well as two fishing rods and some bait shrimps. The waitress explained that we could fish as much as we wanted. Every fish that bit our line would have to be bought. A big fish would use up five of our tickets. The remaining three could be put towards another large fish and we would have to pay for the rest of it. Any other fish would have to be paid for, at around 2,000円 each.

The shoal is made mostly of a fish which is called 伊佐木 (いさき/Isaki) in Japanese. The English name – Grunter – sounds far less appetising but is no reflection of the fish’s delicious taste. There are also mackerel, lobsters, flounder, hardtail and a number of unidentifiable shelled things from the depths.

Fish started nibbling as soon as our lines were cast and before long me and my friend had both caught fish. The other diners let out a cheer and there were cries of omedetou as we wrestled our catches from the pool with nets. The waitress quickly took our fish and offered to return them either fried, grilled or as sashimi.

We chose sashimi for our first fish. The tasty Grunter was fantastic, but quickly became a guilty pleasure – and a little hard to enjoy – as we watched its body still moving beside the display of flesh! Our second was fried and tasted entirely guilt free.

Buoyed by his fishing success, my friend went for a stroke of the manager’s pet shark. The shark protested and thrashed around belly up. I’d recommend not killing the manager’s pet as this will probably be frowned upon.

The night we visited Zauo was particularly lively with a few companies celebrating bonenkais, but I suspect the atmosphere is fun any night. If you fancy trying your luck on the line you can find out more on the Zauo website. There are occasional discount coupons on Hot Pepper so time it right and you’ll get a bargain… happy fishing!

Q: Can you tell us a bit about the Study Games, Jen?
A: Sure. A lot of us are studying for the JLPT exams and I thought a study group would be helpful.

Q: Why only once a month? If people are studying, isn’t every week better?
A: Well, people study differently and at different paces. Also, sometimes life gets in the way. So I figured it would be easier to get people to meet once a month to test their skills in a friendly competition than to get a weekly meeting going.

Q: You’re studying for level 3 right? So is this only for that level?
A: No way. I can make the starting tests for levels 5, 4 and 3 but if there are any people who want to try this for levels 2 and 1, they are more than welcome to mail me, become an administrator on the Facebook group or to set it up themselves.

Q: Starting levels? What does that mean?
A: The month of January is the starting month. I’ll be making (at least) the level 3 January Games (small quizzes in reading, listening, vocabulary, kanji, grammar and miscellaneous). After we have some winners, the winners will make one small test for the next month. That way, everybody can participate and nobody is overwhelmed with work.

Q: Where and when is the first meeting?
A: The first event will be held on January 29th and will run from 3pm until around 5pm. The venue is still to be decided. If it’s all Takasaki people, I’ll hold it somewhere in Takasaki. If it’s all Shibukawa, it’ll be in Shibukawa.

Q: How do we sign-up?
A: Anyone who is interested in their Japanese can join in. You can sign-up by joining the group that was made on Facebook. If you don’t have a Facebook account, just e-mail jennaannhammer@gmail.com.

Q: So, what are do you think your chances are for the JLPT in summer?
A: Let’s just say I’ll be studying, wheter or not this study group takes off.

If you have yet to make a trip up into the mountains of Minakami for an art-filled day, slap it near the top of your Gunma bucket list. Takumi-no-sato (たくみの里) is an entire village filled with far too many hands-on traditional Japanese art workshops to even consider doing every one in a day.

Start your visit at the Information Center and pick-up an English guide and map. Sip some local drinking yogurt and decide what workshop you want to choose first. Once you head out into the village, it can be tricky finding the right little house for your chosen activity, but wandering the village is just as enjoyable! Rent a bicycle to explore more of the area in less time. Each workshop will cost you about 1000円 and all the materials and supplies are included.

Choose from 24 different workshops, from rock painting to making your own soba noodles!

Choose from:

• Dried flower arrangements
• Rock painting
• Hand sewn doll costumes
• Patterned glass work
• Pressed flowers
• Clay bells
• Matchbox art
• Traditional and cartoon masks
• Woodwork – making a bookstand and various other things.
• Bamboo house – toys, baskets, etc.
• Straw house – making snow shoes
• Pottery
• Cloisonne house – making small pendants and key rings
• Chirimen Crepe house – using kimono material to make small goods
• Washi – paper making
• Kiori – tree fibres woven with silk to make bags, wallets, and paper products.
• Soba and udon
• Apple pie
• Pickles

I recently visited Takumi-no-sato with friends, and we felt like painting, so chose to make the Japanese bells. The old lady running the workshop was talkative and crazy, explaining to us (and the other customers also painting bells) how us foreigners paint with such power (likened only to the Koreans) and could only marvel at the power that we were exhibiting in our strange kokeshi bells. She is hilarious, and certainly worth a visit!

Takumi-no-sato is about 15 minutes from the Tsukiono IC by car. Busses leave from Numata station at 9:10, 10:00, and 12:38. Other locations are also available. The bus takes about 45 minutes to arrive.

After a long day of creating, relax in a local onsen before the long trip home.

For more information on each of the workshops, check out the Gunma Tourism International Association page.

Winter hours: 9:00-4:00
Address: 847 Sukawa Minakami-machi, Tone-gun 群馬県利根郡みなかみ町須川847
Phone: (0278) 64-2211
Website

Voting is open to:

• Gunma JETs
• Gunma JET alumni*
• Residents of Gunma (including private ALTs)*

* Gunma JET alumni and residents of Gunma must personally know a current Gunma JET to be eligible for voting. This person must be named on the voting form.

Vote Now!
Note: you might not be able to vote if Google Docs is blocked at your school.

Vote Now!
Note: you might not be able to vote if Google Docs is blocked at your school.

As promised at the SDC (Skills Development Conference), here are the “experience checklists.” These are by now way complete lists and were subject to the editor’s opinion (that’s me).  Please feel free to add your own/cross some off.  The purpose of the lists are to give you a picture of some things to see/do while here in Gunma and Japan, and help make your JET experience a fabulous one.

• Gunma Experience Checklist
• Japan Experience Checklist

Snow capped peaks are already visible around Gunma, hailing the start of the winter sports season. It’s time to wax up your gear and find out why Gunma has some of the best skiing and snowboarding in Japan. Whether you’re a master of the slopes or a powder first timer, there’s something for everyone…

Tone/Numata Region

Kawaba Ski Resort 川場スキー場

This is a great little ski resort located high up in Kawaba Village. It is one of the higher resorts in Gunma so it gets fantastic snow all season. The chairs are more modern than most Gunma hills meaning you get up the hill again faster. The runs can be narrow, but the great snow and excellent off-piste and tree runs make it worth it. This is a great hill for beginners and intermediate riders alike. On a clear day you can see Mt. Fuji from the summit, but it is almost always snowing up there (which is a very good thing!)

Rentals are available, but are slightly expensive. Regular rentals are great for beginners, or there are high-end options available as well. `Kawaba City` is the massive complex on the base of the hill, with several restaurants (Indian, Ramen, Burgers, Pizza, and large standard food restaurant) and a few shops to gear-up, including Murasaki Sports. Kawaba Village has 7 or 8 amazing onsen for a post-riding soak. Be sure to pop in to my house and say hi if you are in town! Kawaba is set to open December 17th!

Location: Kawaba Village 川場村 群馬県利根郡川場村川場高原川場リゾート株式会社 Website: Kawaba Ski Resort (Japanese) Webcam: Kawaba live-cam

Hours:

• Weekends/holidays:  8:00 – 4:15
• Weekdays: 8:30 – 4:15

Lift Prices:

• Early season (until Dec. 22) 1 day: 3,500円
• 1 day: 4,200円
• half day: 3,500円 (open – noon)
• super half day: 3,800円 (open – 2:00) or (10:00 – close)
• 12:00 – close: 3,500円
• 1 lift ticket: 400円
• 6 lift ticket: 2,200円

Discounts:

• Free 1 day ticket on your birthday.

How to get there:

• Car: Get off the expressway at Numata IC, turn left, and left again on the 64. Follow the signs from there. About 15 minutes from the IC. Free indoor parking! Here are the directions.
• No snow tires? Catch the free shuttle bus from Den En Plaza in Kawaba village. Parking is free.
• Bus/Train: Take the Joestu line to Numata station. Catch the obnoxious green flowered bus to Kawaba Village (川場村, scroll to the very bottom, the bus is 620円). Get off at Den En Plaza (田園プラ）and catch the free shuttle bus from there.
• There is also a complimentary shuttle bus from Numata station leaving at 9:35am and returning at 3:30pm.

Malnuma Kogen 丸沼高原スキー場

Malnuma is the first resort in Gunma to open and the last to close. This ridiculously long season, from mid-November to mid-April means six solid months of riding. Located high up in the mountains in Katashina village, Malnuma is an awesome ski resort with a gondola that will take you right to the top, meaning virtually no line-ups and guaranteed fresh powder all season long. There is a decent free-style park, and a bit of off-piste, as well as great groomed runs for beginners. Some narrow runs get iced up quickly, and the regular chairs are old and slow, but the gondola is modern and fast, and riding it top to bottom is a massive run. Rentals are available.

The lift tickets are scanned at gates at each lift, so you can either buy a 1 day ticket, or a ticket with several hours loaded on it, and use it any time throughout the season. If you plan on eating there, buy a ticket & meal set to save some yen. You will pay a 1000円 deposit for your lift card. Return your card at the end of the day to get your money back. Be sure to try the ramen at the mid-way ramen house!

Malnuma opened on November 25th!

Location: Katashina Village 片品村 群馬県利根郡片品村東小川４６５８－５８ Website: Malnuma Kogen Japanese site Malnuma Kogen English site Webcam: live cam

Hours:

• 8:15 – 4:00

Lift Prices:

• 1 day ticket: 4500円
• 1 day ticket with meal: 5200円
• 10 hour ticket: 7000円
• 20 hour ticket: 13,500円
• Afternoon ticket: 3500円
• Afternoon ticket with meal: 4200円
• 3 time gondola ticket: 1200円

Discounts:

• Ladies day: Every Monday & Friday (excluding holidays) 1 day lift ticket & meal – 2700円
• Coupon: 1 day ticket, meal & drink 5000円

Getting there:

• Car: Get off at Numata IC and turn left. Follow that road (R120 – Romantic Road) for 42km (about 45 minutes) Free parking. Here is the map.
• Train/bus: A bus runs from both Numata Station (regular train, Joetsu line) and Jomo Kogen station (Shinkansen). You transfer buses at Kamata. Buses leave Numata station at 8:40am and 10:47am.

Tanbara Ski Park たんばらスキーパーク

This is a smaller hill that is excellent for beginners.  There is a small freestyle park for the park junkies. If you plan on buying lunch, get the meal sets. 1000円 to spend on food, and 500円 to spend on food or in the gift shop. Rentals are available. Located just outside of Numata, Tanbara is one of the closer ski resorts to central Gunma, meaning you do not have to wake up quite as early to get there! Rentals are available.

Tanbara opened December 1st!

Locaton: Numata 沼田市 群馬県沼田市玉原高原 Website: Tanbara Ski Park (Japanese)

Hours:

• Weekdays: 8:30 – 4:00
• Weekends: 8:00 – 4:00

Lift Fare:

• 1 day ticket: 4200円
• Open – 12:00 ticket: 3800円
• 12:00 – close ticket: 3500円
• 1 day ticket + meal + 500円 gift card: 5200円
• Afternoon (12:00~) + meal + 500円 gift card: 4500円
• 1 lift ticket: 400円
• 11 lift tickets: 4000円

Discounts:

• Repeaters discount: Bring an old lift ticket (even from last season) and get a discount.
• With 1 old ticket: 1 day + meal + 500円 gift card: 4800円
• With 2 old tickets: 1 day + meal + 500 円 gift card: 4300円
• Printable coupon. 5100円

Getting there:

• Car: 30 minutes from Numata IC. Use these driving directions. 1000円 parking fee.
• Train: There is a free shuttle bus from Jomo Kogen station (Shinkansen).

Minakami Area

Okutone Snow Park 奥利根スノーパーク

High up in Minakami is this popular ski resort that has something for everyone. Okutone gets decent snow, and has runs suitable for beginners to intermediate riders. There is a decent free-style park, as well. Okuntone has great night skiing, until 10:00pm on weekdays, and midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Night skiing courses are limited but there are virtually no line-ups and no crowds on the hill. Early morning skiing is available as well. Stop by Canyons for a drink on the way home. Rentals are available.

Location: Minakami みなかみ町 群馬県利根郡みなかみ町向山 Website: Okutone Snow Park

Hours:

• Monday ~ Thursday: 8:00am ~ 10:00pm
• Friday: 8:00am ~ midnight
• Saturday, Sunday & holidays: 6:00am ~ midnight

Price:

• 1 day lift ticket (open ~ 5:00pm): 4000円
• 4 hour lift ticket – 3000円
• Early morning ticket (6:00am ~ 9:00am): 1500円
• Afternoon & Nigher (12:00 ~ close): 3600円
• Sunset (3:00 ~ close): 2700円
• Nighter A (5:00pm ~ close): 2100円
• Nighter B (7:00pm ~ close): 1600円
• Nighter C (9:00pm ~ close): 1000円
• 1 lift ticket: 350円

Getting there:

• Car: Take the expressway to Minakami IC. Turn left and left again (at the big bungee bridge) and follow that road (R291) up and up and up past Canyons. Follow the signs from there. Parking is free. Here’s the driving map.
• Train/bus: Take the Joetsu line to Minakami station and catch the bus from there. The bus takes about 10 minutes andcosts 450円.

Norn Snow Park ノルンスキー場

Norn’s convenient location right off the Minakami IC makes it an easy and quick snow destination. It is not the biggest of hills, but it gets decent snow and there are some good runs for people of all abilities. Like Okutone, night skiing is available until 10:00pm on weekdays and midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. There is only one chair open at night, but there are no line ups and crowds at all.  The courses offer a few decent kickers and rails to keep the park junkies happy all night long. Buy a ticket pack (both day and night are available) if you plan on eating there.

Location: Minakami Town みなかみ町 群馬県利根郡みなかみ町寺間４７９－１３９ Website: Norn Ski Resort Webcam: Norn Webcam

Hours:

• Sunday ~ Thursday: 7:00am ~ 10:00pm
• Friday & Saturday: 7:00am ~ midnight

Price:

• Early season 1 day lift ticket: 2500円
• 1 day lift ticket (open ~ 5:00pm): 4200円
• 5 hour lift ticket: 3600円
• Early morning ticket (7:00am ~ 10:00am): 2000円
• Twilight (2:00 ~ 10:00): 3700円
• Nighter A (4:30 ~ 10:00): 2100円
• Nighter B (4:30 ~ 12:00): 2500円
• 1 lift ticket: 400円
• 11 lift ticket: 4000円

Discounts:

• 1 day pack: (open ~ 5:00) 1 day lift ticket + 1000円 lunch + 500円 gift card: 5000円
• Nighter pack: 1 nighter lift ticket + 1000円 dinner: 2900円

Getting there:

• Car: Norn is probably the easiest resort to access by car. Get off at Minakami IC and turn left. Follow the sings from there. It takes about 5 minutes from the IC. Use this access map (Japanese). Parking is free.
• Train/bus: Take the Joetsu line to MInakami station. Catch the shuttle bus from there. The bus takes 20 minutes.

Theme: Fall in Japan

Submit your photo to webmaster@gunmajet.net by 6pm on Friday 16th December with a brief description or caption. Submitted photos will be voted for by ALTs in Gunma with the winner announced the following week.

The prizes

Both contest winners will receive bragging rights as top photographers in Gunma, as well as a 1000 yen Yamada Denki gift certificate to stock up on new camera gear so you can win again next time! The first place winner also takes home David’s great new book.

I hope you enjoy Life After the B.O.E. the Book! Wishing all the JETs in Gunma a wonderful holiday season, and an awesome 2012! — David Namisato

1st Place

• Signed copy of Life After the B.O.E. the Book by David Namisato
• 1000 yen Yamada Denki gift certificate

2nd Place

• 1000 yen Yamada Denki gift certificate

Rules and guidelines

• Open to residents of Gunma and Gunma JET alumni.
• One entry per person.
• Maximum file size: 7 MB
• Post-processing is allowed.
• Your photo will be resized so that its longest side is 1600 pixels (around 2 megapixels), so make sure that your image is at least this size if you don’t want it to be upscaled.
• Do not add any borders or effects to the edge of the photo.
• Do not add a watermark (entries will remain anonymous during voting).

You will be notified if there is a problem with your entry.

The small print: While you will still retain the rights to your submitted photos, GAJET will be free to use all submitted photos for our own media purposes. We will not distribute the photos without your permission.